Zagato Lab One Concept
Ref. Number:
168636-3001
Chopard showcases its watchmaking expertise and sense of innovation with a concept watch developed in collaboration with the Italian automotive bodywork specialist Zagato. The new creative collaboration combines iconic codes from both Maisons to introduce a true concept watch showcasing the watchmaking prowess of the Manufacture's workshops founded in Fleurier in 1996 and the avant-garde spirit of the Italian coachbuilder. Much as a concept car represents innovation in the automotive world, Chopard introduced its first concept watch in 2020 with the Mille Miglia Lab One model, offering enhanced performance and a futuristic aesthetic influenced by racing cars. Today, the Zagato Lab One Concept model is a horological tribute to the automotive designer.
This new collaboration magnifies the Tubular architecture characteristic of the car chassis developed by the famous bodywork specialist. The movement is thus supported by a network of tubes: a principle used in racing cars to optimize rigidity while reducing weight. This design distributes mechanical stress in the event of impacts and improves structural safety. It is a first for Chopard, which has transposed these technologies from motorsport to the field of watchmaking. Instead of lugs, the tubular open loops ensure that the watch sits perfectly on the wrist. They feature a pivoting function whose amplitude is controlled by an adjustment system (approximately 45 degrees on each side). The crown on the side of the case is derived from automotive differential gears and personalized with an engraved steering wheel that has become emblematic of Chopard's Classic Racing codes.
While the aesthetics of the timepiece evoke the sleek lines of Zagato concept cars, its horological “engine” encapsulates the same quest for performance. From the very first discussions about this project, one thing was certain: this model would incorporate an evolution of Chopard Manufacture's Engine One Tourbillon caliber, introduced in 2010 and representing a true aesthetic hybrid between automotive mechanics and Haute Horlogerie. This new mechanical “speed machine” retains the distinctive fuel gauge of its predecessor, displaying the power reserve and accentuating the analogy between a dashboard and the watch dial. L.U.C Caliber 04.04-L is nonetheless distinguished by its round shape, breaking with the vertical and horizontal configurations of its predecessors (including the 2010 L.U.C Engine One timepiece with its L.U.C Caliber 04.01-L). Previously crafted in nickel silver, the bridges and baseplate of this new movement are now made of ceramized titanium. Resulting from solutions tried and tested by Chopard Manufacture, the caliber incorporates a shock-absorbing system based on silent blocks and specially redesigned for this model. Just as in a car engine, these elastomer elements dampen vibrations and absorb impacts. Four lever arms inserted into the caseband ensure optimal stability and increased mechanical protection for the caliber. At the heart of the movement, a 60-second tourbillon topped by a small seconds dial is combined with a Variner® balance and a hairspring with a Phillips terminal curve, all housed in an aluminium carriage contributing to the Zagato Lab One Concept model’s exceptional lightness. This meticulous pursuit of perfectly homogeneous materials has one ultimate goal: to reduce weight, echoing the quest for lightness in the world of motor racing.
The 42 mm diameter case along with the movement bridges and mainplate are made from ceramized titanium. This ultra-resistant metal is obtained by a process of oxidizing titanium through electro-plasma technology: a treatment endowing it with a hardness of 1000 Vickers as well as shock and scratch resistance comparable to that of ceramic. Its lightness enables the workshops to offer this timepiece weighing a total of just 43.20 grams – including the strap. A material developed for use in aerospace and automobile construction, ceramized ti