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当我们走近劳拉(Laura)位于品牌高级珠宝工坊的工作台时,到处摆放着闪闪发光、色彩斑斓的珍宝。毫无疑问,这些琳琅满目的高级珠宝杰作,就像要装饰歌剧服饰的复刻品一样珍贵! 自2018年起,作为品牌工坊的奢华珠宝手工制模大师,劳拉一直以锡和水晶塑造模型,并指导其他工匠以宝石和贵金属制作真品模型的工作。
[A note is sustained in the background on string instruments]
(On-screen text: Chopard presents)
(Laura is in her workshop, wearing a white coat embroidered with "Chopard Genève". She sketches a necklace made of an eagle with diamond feathers onto tracing paper, then uses it to cut the shape out on a sheet of metal.)
I've always drawn, I used to paint with my Mum. I'd show her my paintings and ask: What do you think? And it was in her studio that I was inspired to draw like her.
(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)
[Soft piano music plays]
(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)
(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)
(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)
We often say that jewellers have "hands of gold".
(A portrait of Laura.)
(On-screen text: Laura, Jewellery Model Maker)
You could say I have "hands of tin".
(In her workshop, Laura polishes the metal cutout of the bird's wings. She welds two pieces of metal together, selecting different tools to sculpt the material and shape seats for the stones to come.)
I'm a jeweller model maker at Chopard. It was quite natural for me to use tools, I wasn't nervous because at my grandfather's house, I played with nails, little boats. To be a good model maker, you have to listen. You have to have an artistic temperament and sensibility.
(Laura places the necklace onto a mannequin bust and begins to set the stones in place.)
It's something I feel compelled to do to express my artistic flair.
(On-screen text: Three-dimensional plastiline model)
(Laura sculpts a model of the bird's head, adding details and stones. She compares her work to the original picture.)
I think that through lots of observation, the eye educates itself and lets you know what is beautiful and what isn't beautiful. I never think I'll get it right first time. So it gives me a small thrill to think: How am I going to do this?
(On-screen text: Conducting prototype trials from paper)
(Laura cuts out sketches of floral shapes and uses them as templates to sculpt metal petals and leaves.)
Because it isn't by looking once, but a hundred times, that you find that little spark that will change the volume, that will tell you if it's something you really like, that tells you the piece is coming to life and has a new kind of strength.
(On-screen text: Sculpting pewter)
We're always inspired by nature in jewellery making.
(On-screen text: Pewter reproduction of the pattern)
(Laura shapes the metal petals into flowers, using a real flower to guide her.)
If the gouache design depicts a rose, I will draw inspiration from books with roses inside or photos that I've taken, and I thus try to find what might go together.
(On-screen text: Setting crystals)
(Laura sets a line of tiny crystals along the edges of the flower. Once it has taken shape, she holds it up against a model to make sure the final form is perfect.)
I feel really lucky to be able to do this work because I think it's unique and because, at Chopard, I have the chance to add my own personal touch.
(On-screen text: Reproducing pistils)
(Laura adds colour to tiny pistils for her flower.)
I've always liked the Maison for its colourful and feminine side.
(The model tries on the sparkling eagle necklace and Laura looks on.)
We don't know why exactly, but we're a bit magical, all of us, and we often forget that.
(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)
“我小时候最喜欢做的事情,就是在我爷爷的工坊里画画、摆弄爷爷的工具。如今,这一特别的学徒经历对我塑造锡制模型而言非常宝贵。”
劳拉(Laura),珠宝手工制模大师
我们的奢华珠宝手工制模大师从小接受绘画训练,对美有自己独到的见解。其任务是:塑造设计师草图上所绘制的珠宝,为设计师提供其作品的首个三维立体造型。对于劳拉而言,无论是黄金还是钻石,她均使用锡材质制作模型,这是一种可塑性和延展性优异的金属材质,她可以更快地根据自己的想法和对作品的理解进行创作。与高级珠宝蜡雕师不同的是,她可以用白色或有色晶体制作模型,这些晶体可以模拟宝石,并呈现出如真品珠宝般的光泽和色彩:对于 那些以原始模型的大小和颜色为蓝本选择宝石的设计师而言,这是一项非常有益的工作。
此模型将由工坊总监、宝石工匠、珠宝师和镶嵌师使用,以便在制作时了解奢华珠宝的形状和特性。劳拉凭借精湛的技艺创作了尽可能精确的三维立体模型。正是这项重要的准备工作,使得整个工坊节省了大量时间,并将更快地勾勒出作品的形象。
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