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尽情闪耀!如果有一位能与光和睦相处的工匠,那就是自2007年起加入萧邦制表工坊担任奢华钟表抛光师的罗德琳(Rodeline)。她每天都会满怀热情地工作,尽可能展现金属的光泽,令它们反射出如阳光般的耀眼光芒。在作品制作的最后阶段,瑞士腕表需经过她双手的打磨,才能向公众绽放所有的璀璨美感。
[A sustained note in the background]
(On-screen text: Chopard presents)
(A close-up of a dial. Rodeline works at a machine in her workshop.)
When I first came to Chopard, I was 15 and I was looking for an apprenticeship.
(On-screen text: Decorating the caseback using a beading technique)
I knew it was a job you did with your hands, but I didn't know what it was all about.
(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)
[Soft piano music plays]
(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)
(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)
(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)
Hands are really something for me. They're very important.
(A portrait of Rodeline.)
(On-screen text: Rodeline, Watch-Polishing Artisan)
During my apprenticeship, I really fell in love with the job. Something happened and I thought, this is what I'm meant to do.
(On-screen text: Eliminating machining marks by emerising)
(Rodeline polishes an engraved watch case back with the inscription "1000 Miglia". She tweaks the settings on the machine she is using and tilts the piece to shine the whole surface.)
What I love about Chopard is that there are so many new things. New models are launched every year, it's always a challenge, you wonder what's going to come along next. I really enjoy complicated things.
(On-screen text: Preparing for polishing by felt polishing)
It's really something...
(On-screen text: Creating radiance by buffing)
Nothing is more exciting than the first manufactured piece taken from the model, there isn't another, it's the only one, the first one, it's for the family.
(Rodeline shines a "Happy Sport" case, inspecting it and selecting tools to polish the entire surface.)
(On-screen text: Polishing)
When I first see a brand new piece, I look at the material, the angles, I think about how to approach it, to work it. Each material has its little quirk, it doesn't react in the same way. You have to get into it, work it, caress it. And just because a material is very hard, very resistant, doesn't mean you should force it. You have to really work with the material to make it shine. Each brushed line is made to measure, the graining catches the light in the material and for me, machines can't do things like this.
(Rodeline meticulously polishes a bracelet made up of different metal surfaces.)
(On-screen text: Creating a matt effect by satin-brushing)
You can have 50 pieces, but each one is unique. If you can give a piece even more wow factor, you do it. I do a lot of touching up. It's quite normal that we have to touch up. Pieces are used, handled, picked up, screwed down, handed over, taken over there, put into trays... Accidents happen. I find it really satisfying to save pieces.
(On-screen text: Satin-brushing using a wooden stick coated with emery paper)
(Rodeline carefully buffs a spinning metal piece.)
Not being able to save a piece would be a failure, to have to call it a write-off. I always find a solution in the end. I can't see myself doing another job. I feel so good where I am. It's like a family. We're always glad to see each other. And it's so important, I think, to feel comfortable with the people around you.
(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)
“凭借经验积累而练就的灵巧手法,我对腕表表壳进行精工细制,它们以原始状态来到我面前,在保留每件作品几何美感的同时,我尽可能地展现材质的最终光泽。”
罗德琳(Rodeline),奢华钟表手工抛光大师
抛光是一门围绕光的艺术。展现光芒,突出光彩,吸引目光。在萧邦制表工坊里,当奢华腕表作品即将完成时,它们会被送到罗德琳的工作台。2002年,这位充满激情的工匠以学徒的身份加入品牌。在这里,品牌优秀的培训师们将专业知识和工作职责传授给她。经过多年的培训,罗德琳已成为萧邦制表工坊杰出的奢华钟表手工抛光大师。
借助小型抛光车床和抛光膏,她深入每一枚时计的各个角落和缝隙,以去除任何粗糙、划痕和灰尘。钟表的里里外外皆以崭新面貌闪耀亮相!罗德琳赋予她的所有作品以特殊光泽:在完成操作后,这些作品除了在她放置作品的托盘上闪闪发光外,在她自己的眼中亦闪耀着独特的光彩。在工作过程中,她一边抛光腕表,一边想象着这些作品佩戴者读取时间的模样。
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