ローラ

ジュエリー原型師

ジュエリーの名作

ショパールのハイジュエリーアトリエにあるローラの作業台に近づくと、きらめく多彩なオブジェが積み重ねられており、宝物を発掘したような気分になります。そこにあるファインジュエリーの傑作の数々は、オペラの衣装を身に纏うことになるジュエリーの複製なのです。2018年からショパールのアトリエで、ラグジュアリージュエリーの原型師として働くローラは、こうしたジュエリーの原型を錫やクリスタルで製作することで、ストーンやプレシャスメタルを用いてオリジナルを製作する職人たちの作業を導いています。

[A note is sustained in the background on string instruments]


(On-screen text: Chopard presents) 


(Laura is in her workshop, wearing a white coat embroidered with "Chopard Genève". She sketches a necklace made of an eagle with diamond feathers onto tracing paper, then uses it to cut the shape out on a sheet of metal.)


I've always drawn, I used to paint with my Mum. I'd show her my paintings and ask: What do you think? And it was in her studio that I was inspired to draw like her.


(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)


[Soft piano music plays]


(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)


(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)


(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)


We often say that jewellers have "hands of gold".


(A portrait of Laura.) 


(On-screen text: Laura, Jewellery Model Maker)


You could say I have "hands of tin".


(In her workshop, Laura polishes the metal cutout of the bird's wings. She welds two pieces of metal together, selecting different tools to sculpt the material and shape seats for the stones to come.)


I'm a jeweller model maker at Chopard. It was quite natural for me to use tools, I wasn't nervous because at my grandfather's house, I played with nails, little boats. To be a good model maker, you have to listen. You have to have an artistic temperament and sensibility.


(Laura places the necklace onto a mannequin bust and begins to set the stones in place.)


It's something I feel compelled to do to express my artistic flair.


(On-screen text: Three-dimensional plastiline model) 


(Laura sculpts a model of the bird's head, adding details and stones. She compares her work to the original picture.)


I think that through lots of observation, the eye educates itself and lets you know what is beautiful and what isn't beautiful. I never think I'll get it right first time. So it gives me a small thrill to think: How am I going to do this?


(On-screen text: Conducting prototype trials from paper)


(Laura cuts out sketches of floral shapes and uses them as templates to sculpt metal petals and leaves.)


Because it isn't by looking once, but a hundred times, that you find that little spark that will change the volume, that will tell you if it's something you really like, that tells you the piece is coming to life and has a new kind of strength.


(On-screen text: Sculpting pewter)


We're always inspired by nature in jewellery making.


(On-screen text: Pewter reproduction of the pattern)


(Laura shapes the metal petals into flowers, using a real flower to guide her.)


If the gouache design depicts a rose, I will draw inspiration from books with roses inside or photos that I've taken, and I thus try to find what might go together.


(On-screen text: Setting crystals)


(Laura sets a line of tiny crystals along the edges of the flower. Once it has taken shape, she holds it up against a model to make sure the final form is perfect.)


I feel really lucky to be able to do this work because I think it's unique and because, at Chopard, I have the chance to add my own personal touch.


(On-screen text: Reproducing pistils)


(Laura adds colour to tiny pistils for her flower.)


I've always liked the Maison for its colourful and feminine side.


(The model tries on the sparkling eagle necklace and Laura looks on.)


We don't know why exactly, but we're a bit magical, all of us, and we often forget that.


(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)

「子供の頃はずっとデッサンを描いたり、祖父のアトリエの工具で遊んだりしていました。こうした経験が、今では錫で原型を作成する作業にとても役立っています」

― ローラ、ジュエリー原型師

ローラ、ジュエリー原型師

幼少期からデッサンを学んだこのメゾンのラグジュアリージュエリー原型師は、美の代弁者です。ローラの使命は、デザイナーのスケッチで描かれた二次元のジュエリーを初めて三次元で表現すること。彼女は原型を、ゴールドでもダイヤモンドでもなく、思い浮かんだ作品のアイディアや解釈に応じて素早く加工できる、柔らかい錫で形作ります。ワックスを使用するファインジュエリー彫刻師とは異なり、原型にホワイトやカラーのクリスタルをあしらうことで、彼女は本物のジュエリーに使われるプレシャスストーンのような輝きや色彩を演出することができるのです。これが、完成品のためにサイズやカラーを考慮しながらプレシャスストーンを選ぶ職人たちの強力な支えになっています。

モデル

ジュエリーの原型は、アトリエのリーダー、宝石細工職人、ジュエリー職人、ジェムセッターらが製作時にラグジュアリージュエリーのフォルムと特徴を把握するのに役立ちます。この大切な予備作業により、アトリエ全体で作業が見通せるようになるだけでなく、時間の節約もできるのです。ローラがノウハウを駆使して正確に製作した三次元の“テンプレート”に沿って、彼らは作業を行っているのです。

専門知識からエモーションまで

ショパールの「MAINS D’ART(その手で芸術を生み出す職人たち)」