Master Gemsetting Artisan

A Haute Joaillerie creation would not exist without the precious stones that give it brilliance, light, colour – and above all precious value. These same gems cannot become a piece of jewellery without an underlying structure and in order to give the best of themselves, they must be set in the most subtle possible way. Gemsetting is a form of sculpture, a high relief effect that emerges from a noble material such as the finely worked gold or platinum which plays the role of holding the gem in place

Master Gemsetting Artisan Carlos is a magician who works in a dedicated part of Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie workshops. He is capable of marrying stones with gold, platinum or titanium, without anyone really grasping how it’s done… Precious metals are dedicated to serving these gems, supporting and magnifying them. The two are inseparably bound together and this alliance is sealed through binoculars, in the silence of a Geneva workshop. Endlessly repeated operations that are nonetheless always different, as each stone proudly displays its uniqueness. The gemset and Haute Joaillerie sets bearing the Chopard signature all pass through the hands of this artist whose heart beats faster at the sight and touch of precious stones.

Gemsetting is an art of patience, meticulous care and self-control. Precisely the qualities acquired by Carlos through his many years of experience. When he is dealing with stones of fragile beauty, an emerald weighing several dozen carats or a Paraiba tourmaline whose blue color rivals that of lagoons, you need the kind of dexterity that can only be acquired after decades of training to be able to set them without squeezing too hard. Too much pressure can shatter the gem. When looking at luxury jewelry adorned with precious and fine stones, one might be tempted to take its beauty for granted. And yet, however invisible the gemsetting craftsmanship may be, one is in fact contemplating the work of a virtuoso.

"At the end of the day, gemsetting is the art of mastering extremes: hovering between solid support and carefree abandon, between strength and lightness. It's an exquisite paradox."

Carlos, the Master Artisan of Gemsetting

Artisan of emotions

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