Laura

Artigiana gioielliera prototipista

Capolavori di gioielleria

Il banco da lavoro di Laura, nei nostri laboratori di Haute Joaillerie, sembra la grotta di Ali Babà, ricolma di manufatti scintillanti e colorati. Non bisogna lasciarsi trarre in inganno, però: questa profusione di oggetti sono capolavori che hanno lo stesso valore delle copie realizzate per i costumi da scena! Laura, Artigiana gioielliera prototipista di Chopard dal 2018, realizza con lo stagno e i cristalli questi prototipi che guideranno il lavoro degli altri artigiani e serviranno a realizzare il modello originale con pietre e metalli preziosi.

[A note is sustained in the background on string instruments]


(On-screen text: Chopard presents) 


(Laura is in her workshop, wearing a white coat embroidered with "Chopard Genève". She sketches a necklace made of an eagle with diamond feathers onto tracing paper, then uses it to cut the shape out on a sheet of metal.)


I've always drawn, I used to paint with my Mum. I'd show her my paintings and ask: What do you think? And it was in her studio that I was inspired to draw like her.


(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)


[Soft piano music plays]


(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)


(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)


(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)


We often say that jewellers have "hands of gold".


(A portrait of Laura.) 


(On-screen text: Laura, Jewellery Model Maker)


You could say I have "hands of tin".


(In her workshop, Laura polishes the metal cutout of the bird's wings. She welds two pieces of metal together, selecting different tools to sculpt the material and shape seats for the stones to come.)


I'm a jeweller model maker at Chopard. It was quite natural for me to use tools, I wasn't nervous because at my grandfather's house, I played with nails, little boats. To be a good model maker, you have to listen. You have to have an artistic temperament and sensibility.


(Laura places the necklace onto a mannequin bust and begins to set the stones in place.)


It's something I feel compelled to do to express my artistic flair.


(On-screen text: Three-dimensional plastiline model) 


(Laura sculpts a model of the bird's head, adding details and stones. She compares her work to the original picture.)


I think that through lots of observation, the eye educates itself and lets you know what is beautiful and what isn't beautiful. I never think I'll get it right first time. So it gives me a small thrill to think: How am I going to do this?


(On-screen text: Conducting prototype trials from paper)


(Laura cuts out sketches of floral shapes and uses them as templates to sculpt metal petals and leaves.)


Because it isn't by looking once, but a hundred times, that you find that little spark that will change the volume, that will tell you if it's something you really like, that tells you the piece is coming to life and has a new kind of strength.


(On-screen text: Sculpting pewter)


We're always inspired by nature in jewellery making.


(On-screen text: Pewter reproduction of the pattern)


(Laura shapes the metal petals into flowers, using a real flower to guide her.)


If the gouache design depicts a rose, I will draw inspiration from books with roses inside or photos that I've taken, and I thus try to find what might go together.


(On-screen text: Setting crystals)


(Laura sets a line of tiny crystals along the edges of the flower. Once it has taken shape, she holds it up against a model to make sure the final form is perfect.)


I feel really lucky to be able to do this work because I think it's unique and because, at Chopard, I have the chance to add my own personal touch.


(On-screen text: Reproducing pistils)


(Laura adds colour to tiny pistils for her flower.)


I've always liked the Maison for its colourful and feminine side.


(The model tries on the sparkling eagle necklace and Laura looks on.)


We don't know why exactly, but we're a bit magical, all of us, and we often forget that.


(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)

"Ho trascorso la mia infanzia a disegnare e giocare con gli attrezzi nel laboratorio di mio nonno. Grazie a questo preziosissimo 'apprendistato', oggi posso scolpire i miei prototipi con lo stagno."

Laura, Artigiana gioielliera prototipista

Laura, artigiana gioielliera prototipista

La nostra Artigiana prototipista in gioielleria di lusso ha studiato disegno sin dalla più giovane età. Oggi, interpreta la bellezza con una missione ben precisa: dare forma ai gioielli che i disegnatori hanno raffigurato sui loro bozzetti per crearne la prima rappresentazione tridimensionale. A Laura non servono né l’oro né i diamanti. Lei lavora con lo stagno, un metallo estremamente malleabile cui riesce a dare forma più velocemente in base alle sue idee e alla sua interpretazione dell’esemplare. Contrariamente allo scultore gioielliere su cera, lei può completare il suo prototipo con cristalli bianchi o colorati, per simulare la lucentezza e le sfumature delle pietre preziose che saranno incastonate sui gioielli: il suo lavoro è di grande aiuto per chi dovrà selezionare le pietre del modello originale in base alla dimensione e al colore.

Il modello

Il prototipo servirà al responsabile del laboratorio, ai tagliatori di pietre, ai gioiellieri e agli incastonatori per capire le forme e le specificità del gioiello di lusso in fase di produzione. Questo importante lavoro di preparazione permette all’intero laboratorio di guadagnare in tempo e “leggibilità”: tutti, infatti, potranno seguire il prototipo tridimensionale preparato da Laura con tutto il suo savoir-faire e la massima precisione.

Dall'expertise all'emozione

LE NOSTRE "MAINS D'ART"